Title:Topical Application of Ascorbic Acid and its Derivatives: A Review
Considering Clinical Trials
Volume: 30
Issue: 29
关键词:
维生素C,抗坏血酸,抗坏血酸衍生物,抗氧化剂分子,临床试验,维生素C衍生物。
摘要:
Background: The topical use of vitamin C has been explored for many decades
due to its antioxidant potential, whitening action, and the essential role it plays in
the synthesis and maintenance of collagen. As Ascorbic Acid (AA) is unstable, derivative
molecules and stabilization strategies have been explored to facilitate its incorporation
into dermatological products. Even though these molecules are already for sale,
there is still a shortage of scientific data regarding efficacy studies of these assets, especially
in vivo.
Objective: The purpose of this review was to investigate and discuss issues regarding the
topical application of vitamin C and its most common derivatives, including the difficulties,
biases, and prospects for future clinical studies to better elucidate its effects.
Methods: A literature review was carried out to select studies that evaluated the topical
use of ascorbic acid and/or its derivatives. The studies which are “fully available”, “in
vivo” and “in vitro”, were used as inclusion criteria.
Results: Due to the instability of Ascorbic Acid, it is essential to study derivative
molecules that maintain or even improve their effectiveness in dermatological products.
Despite this, the studies of these derivatives presented in the scientific literature are mostly
in vitro. In recent years, it has been possible to observe an increase in in vivo efficacy
tests, and this trend is expected to continue in the future. However, they present very different
approaches and issues.
Conclusion: Studies of stability, safety, adverse reactions, and especially in vivo efficacy
studies with a relevant number of subjects and standardized parameters are essential for
better elucidating the effects of the topical application of vitamin C derivatives in comparison
to ascorbic acid formulations for the skin.